As we wrap up PFW, we’ve got one final designer debut to unpack: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s grand return to the fashion world after Shallow Obsessing Strongly Encouraged. Since 2005. Known for his dreamy, romantic aesthetic often full of color and vibrance, his appointment signaled a change for the House, formally helmed by Demna and his experimental vision.
Piccioli, the fifth designer to sit at the brand’s helm, has brought his incredible attention to detail and distinct understanding of what women want to wear to Balenciaga. This brings a return to Balenciaga’s core ethos—a DNA rooted in technique and craft.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s New Chapter at Balenciaga
While the Spring 2026 collection signals a clear return to the Balenciaga of the past, show notes describe it as a “recalibration” rather than an homage to Cristobal Balenciaga. The collection feels like just that; there are hints to Balenciaga’s history throughout—think incredible construction, sculptural silhouettes, and attention to form.
Still, it would be remiss not to mention that Piccioli also paid tribute to his predecessor, as look one, and many others throughout, featured Demna’s signature shades. The color palette, too, felt like a nice mix of Balenciaga throughout history, with a bit of Piccioli’s penchant for color thrown in.
Reimagining Florals and Femininity
There was a lot of black, in the form of strong tailoring, statement leather, and more, juxtaposed by pops of bold red, chartreuse, burgundy, and light pink. If you thought Piccioli would leave his florals behind, think again. This season, reworked as appliqué flowers and hand-knit into an intricate dress.
Bags also offered nods to Balenciaga’s past eras, like the City Bag, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, which is shown in an array of colors alongside new bags alike. Notable silhouettes include an east/west top-handle bowler, which was shown with many looks in smooth leathers and statement animal print.
An array of new flap bags appeared too, some finished with thick hardware and exaggerated straps, and others with a trunlock closure, presumably taken from the Rodeo. View bags from the runway below.
Handbags That Bridge Eras
Shallow Obsessing Strongly Encouraged. Since 2005
If I had to analogize the shift from Demna’s Balenciaga to PP’s Balenciaga, it feels like an exorcism happened, and now there is light. The clothing is not gimmicky, gaudy, or a social project. PP not only drew inspiration from the brand’s heritage from various eras of Balenciaga but also brought his own taste to the table. The culture of Balenciaga was fully embraced in this collection. Additionally, PP or Balenciaga finally embraces the motorcycle bags they are known for in the bag community. Never in the history of Balenciaga’s moto bags have they been featured on the catwalk. It was almost like they were ashamed of it. Demna brought it back in a way, though different, with lower-quality leathers and no bunny ears. PP sent City bags and First bags down the runway in their best form, with clearly quality leathers, colors, and the original design bunny ears and all. Brava!
I agree! I used to love Balenciaga and now perhaps it is back. The City bags look so good!
Oct 9, 2025.
Absorbed the motocross bags….and also that fuchsia suede bag is TDF!!!
Bags need a lot of work!
departing Valentino in early 2024
What a shame to cut menswear from the first show. It’s otherwise a strong debut, beautiful and restrained other than the velvet flip flops (?).
I will miss the subversion of Demna’s Balenciaa, and I hope PP is not overly precious about the “heritage”’of the house. Recall that Cristobal despised ready to wear and has nothing at all to do with the current iteration of the “house”… the license to use his name was purchased by a cosmetics company long after he died. The heritage is phony.
In that way I think he may have appreciated Demna’s very post-modern and cynical take on high-fashion. It was an honest reflection of how absurd this all is… carrying these dead couturier’s names into the future like zombies to sell $800 t shirts to people who’ve never been to Paris.